The Paris Chapter: 01
So, here it finally is: the weekly curation of ‘what to do, when’ in Paris. Intimate events, art salves, nature escapes and neighbourhood guides, along with tips and resources for mastering French.
Designed for those wanting a deeper, richer experience of the city, as an expat, Frenchie or traveller. Find community, discover your happy place(s), and make the most of the city’s creative and culinary pleasures.
If you’re wondering who’s behind this missive - because, granted, recommendations are far more valid when you know who’s making them - hey there, I’m Jenni. I’m an Australian strategist, creative director and mindfulness coach, based in Paris for the past four years. I’m passionate about storytelling, sensory design, photography, neuroscience, grand ideas, wilderness adventures, and rivalling Munger’s reading habits (I’m curious about most everything).
This week has midnight museum visits, film screenings (both short and standard), an imaginative eco-focused soirée, and one of the best brocantes in town. Without further ado:
What’s on
Mon 8
Vide Grenier*, Blvd Beaumarchais (3e), 8am - 6pm
Kick the week off with a little treasure hunt (aka flea market), though you may want to pace yourself as the big guns follow shortly after.
Wed 10
Ecstatic dance, Uman Project (3e), 7.30 - 9.30pm
Give your body space to speak in this free movement expression session, expertly led (fear not, first-timers) by a bilingual instructor. The cracking playlist eases you into moving as your body needs. Great for de-stressing and letting go.
30€. Book here
Thur 11
Photography - One Approach, British Council (7e), 7pm
Dive into the creative process with Bruce Frankel, whose film and photography career traverses the 1970s experimental New York scene to TV journalism, with the September 11 attacks as a key turning point.
Free. Book your seat.
Australian Short Film Today, Australian Embassy (15e), 6.30pm
Craving a hit of Aussie culture? Get your fix with this screening of seven short films, spanning comedy to drama.
Free. Reserve your spot.
Fri 12
Brocante, rue de Bretagne (3e), 8am - 6pm
One of the biggest and best brocantes, this round spanning three full days. While “get in early” always applies, they always seem to have fresh supplies.
Nuit de l’Imagination, Reid Hall (6e), 6pm onwards
An evening of sustainability-focused ideas and innovations, presented by Columbia Global Centers. Of special note: a presentation by Emerging Islands, a Filipino coastal-based arts collective and residency, and a screening of ENTYO, a film about the indigenous women guarding the Amazon rainforest.
Free. Secure your place.
Sat 13
Brocante, rue de Bretagne (3e), 8am - 6pm
Nuit Européenne des Musées (all over Paris)
Paris’s museums burn the midnight oil, as part as a Europe-wide initiative to democratize access to culture. The entry fee is waived and most are open past 11pm.
Free. Check the full program here.
Sun 14
Brocante, rue de Bretagne (3e), 8am - 6pm
Lost in Frenchlation, (4e), from 7pm
A clever initiative for those wanting to engage with French cinema, but who still need subtitles to get by: an ongoing selection of films with English sous-titres, each accompanied by filmmaker discussions. On the menu this week: the new remake of The Three Musketeers.
From 7€. Buy your ticket.
* What’s the difference between a brocante and a vide grenier? Both are flea markets, but brocante stall-holders are typically professionals; expect quality curation and more antique-style pieces. Vide greniers have lower prices, but it may take more time to find a treasure.
Art salve
The Musée Maillol (7e) has a stunning retrospective on photographer Elliot Erwitt, a member of Magnum Photos known for his elegant, irreverent street snaps.
His work spans nearly five decades, capturing the oddities and intimacy of daily life with a grace few of his contemporaries (Henri Cartier-Bresson and Robert Capa notwithstanding) could touch.
“To me, photography is an art of observation. It’s about finding something interesting in an ordinary place…I’ve found it has little to do with the things you see and everything to do with the way you see them.” - Erwitt
For a quieter visit, head over on Wednesday evening when the museum is open until 10pm.
16,50€ full-price admission, www.museemaillol.com
While you’re in the neighbourhood:
Image Republic - peruse their colourful line-up of art prints, featuring Sempé, The New Yorker, The Parisianer and more.
Noglu - gluten free heaven, with a decent selection that’s also vegan friendly (including the ever-illusive croissant that satisfies both camps).
Pharmacie des Âmes - a well-curated little librairie with a cute concept: a book to cure what ails you. They have a small selection in English and other languages, but 95% is in French.
The hidden gem that is Jardin Catherine Labouré, one of the rare Parisian parks where you can sit on the grass. Good options for both sun and shade (hello, vine-covered trellis), with an additional Jardin du Potager out the back.
The Conran Shop - a split three levels of drool-worthy, eye-watering homeware items; great for inspiration, and for their fab array of coffee table tomes.
Le Bon Marché - the Left Bank’s only major department store
Pop into the 5-star Hôtel Lutetia for a tea in their gorgeous Saint Germain salon, or for a later-hour tipple in the art deco, fresco-laden Bar Josephine. As one might expect, prices match the decor.
Librairie Gallimard - you’ll notice a bit of a bookstore obsession, and this is one of the prettier, with high, ladder-requisite shelves. Worth a visit even if you’re not seeking French titles - you can always pick up one of their stylish notebooks, designed in their classic red and white style.
Finally - the list has to end somewhere - grab a coffee or a du jour charcoal latté from Noir (they also have a - dare I say it - even prettier sister outpost on Île Saint-Louis).
Escape to…
Sceaux. The cherry blossoms may have faded, but the 180 acres of plush, picnic-ready grass, serene water features, and Versaille-esque gardens (actually crafted by the same landscape architect) remain, perfect for a quick reprieve from Paris.
How to get there: take the RER B to Bourg-La-Reine or Parc de Sceaux, and then it’s around 15 minutes walking to reach the park.
Pack snacks (if not a full picnic basket), as there’s only one kiosk within the grounds. Seeking picnic supplies (cooler bags, reusable plates et al)? AlterMundi has an adorable selection of eco-friendly options, or try Søstrene Green or the ever-reliable Monoprix (both Saint-Paul and République have larger stores that stock homewares, among others dotted around).
French resource
Slide into it, rather than slogging it out. Perfect for beginners or those early in the game, Language Transfer is a training podcast that plays upon the commonalities between languages; in knowing them, you’ll be able to understand and communicate more than you could’ve imagined.
It’s similar to the Michel Thomas method of language learning (if that rings a bell to you), in that it’s audio only and allows you to build quickly, however Mihalis, Language Transfer’s creator, has a soft, amicable approach, making for both easy listening and learning.
About
Rather than a catch-all, The Paris Chapter is a curation tailored to my interests and proclivities - intimate gatherings, long-reads, thought-provoking pieces, deep conversations, peaceful practices, local producers, regenerative values et al. If something’s featured, it’s either tried-and-tested or (if upcoming) genuinely sparks my interest.
Learn more about the purpose of this new venture and how you can help shape it.
If you found this edition useful, I’d love if you could help spread the word.
Thanks for being here,
Jenni
Such beautiful writing and incredibly well-thought out recommendations. I can't wait to try them!
Wonderful recommendations! I just recently watched Les Trois Mousquetaires: D'Artagnan without subtitles, and wishing I had some, ha! Great finds, thank you.